Updated July 2025
By Anita Gastaldo
For many years, I avoided sewing jersey knit fabric. Those wavy side seams were so unmanageable! Until I learned some techniques (and got a serger). From then on, I started sewing knit dresses, knit tees, and cardigans!
Knit garments are so comfortable to wear, are easy to fit, and don’t wrinkle. Once you get the hang of sewing knit fabric, we think you’ll never want to stop! We recommend sewing knits with a serger. We sell a variety of Juki sergers with prices that will fit your budget. If you want to dabble in sewing knits before you invest in a serger, you can still sew knits successfully. Keep reading for all our expert tips on working with knit fabric.
Know Your Knit Fabric
Jersey and Interlock are two common types of knit fabric. Sew to Speak carries mostly jersey, but it’s important to know the difference so that you are working with the fabric correctly, hemming when needed.
What is Jersey Knit Fabric?
Jersey knit is a single-knit fabric commonly made from cotton, but it can also be made from polyester, viscose, or rayon. This fabric is known for its inherent stretch and buttery softness, making it a popular choice for sewing garments.
What is Interlock Knit Fabric?
Interlock knit fabric is a double-knit fabric that is thicker, more stable, and more absorbent than Jersey knit fabric.
Jersey Knit vs. Interlock Knit
Jersey knit fabric has edges that will roll inwards, but it will not unravel, so seams can be left unhemmed or raw. On the other hand, Interlock edges are flat, but this knit fabric will ravel if stretched. Interlock seams must be hemmed because, if pulled, they will unravel.
Some gorgeous, quality Jersey knits made from 95% cotton and 5% spandex.
The Best Tools for Sewing Knit Fabric
The Best Needle for Sewing Knit Fabric
Using the right sewing machine needle or serger needle makes all the difference. On Jersey knits, you’ll want to use a ballpoint needle. For very elastic knits, synthetic knit fabrics, or high spandex content fabrics, you will want to use a stretch needle. Make sure you use a small needle that doesn’t make a hole in your fabric. If you use a needle that cuts the fibers, you’ll get holes. When sewing a finer fabric, use a smaller needle gauge, like a 70/10. Do a test swatch and tug at it to see if your needle makes a hole. If so, use a smaller ballpoint.
A twin needle can be used on most sewing machines and will make two rows of straight stitches that you can stretch because, on the back side, they make a zig-zag. Stop in, and we’ll give you a demo. Or check out this tutorial from Make It and Love It if you don’t have an extra thread spool holder.
Machines and Settings
Use a walking foot when sewing on a standard sewing machine to sew stretchy fabric. A serger has a “differential” setting, which will totally get rid of any stretching that happens during sewing. Sergers are awesome in general, but especially helpful when sewing knit fabric.
The Juki MO-2000 is an amazing, easy-to-thread, air-powered, self-threading serger. This baby changed my sewing game. It’s easy to use. The loopers thread in seconds, and it has a needle threader that works for both needles. It cuts, sews, and finishes all in one simple, fast process. You must try one! If I had to have just one machine, the MO-2000 would be it. (Thank goodness we’re not limited to the number of sewing machines we can have!) Our Juki Sewing Machines come with free training and a wonderful Juki warranty. Stop in for a test drive.
The MO-2000 turns your threading process into just the touch of a button!
Tips for Sewing Knit Fabric
Stitch Settings
A narrow zig-zag stitch will give the stretch you need for knits if you’re using your sewing machine to sew knits. Many machines have a stretch stitch for knits. Try some different stitches on scrap fabric. I like to lengthen my stitch when using my stretch stitch on my sewing machine.
Always sew a test swatch of fabric to see how your knit will respond to your machine and your needle before putting your fabric in harm’s way. When serging, test a swatch of your fabric to adjust the differential. This setting is magical!
Hemming Knit Fabric
Use a double-sided hem tape to secure your hem before you sew it. This will help control the rolling of the fabric and keep your hem secured and the fabric from stretching while you sew your hem. We like this Bohin double-sided tape. We also like glue sticks for holding together narrow neck and sleeve bands before you sew them.
Experiment
Don’t be afraid to go for it! I used to avoid knits because I was nervous about how they would come out, but now I look for garment patterns made specifically for knit fabric. They are quick, easy to fit, and comfortable! Have an idea, question, or problem, or just want to come and check out our line-up of beautiful knit fabrics? Come in and talk with us, or send us an email.
About the Author
Anita Gastaldo is the original owner of Sew to Speak and, since selling the business in 2023, has been a teacher at the shop. She brings boundless passion for sewing and decades of expertise to every class.