By Janette Knowles and Eva Fried
The world has finally woken up to the importance of textiles as cultural markers. Textiles are quite literally the fabric of our lives. They are material artifacts, economic and technological indicators, as well as a common denominator, reminding us of our shared humanity and tracking cultural shifts throughout history.
We are swaddled in soft cloth at birth, and again, we are wrapped in cloth after death. From the first woman (in all probability) who made cording out of plant fiber in the Paleolithic period to the thousands of people who dusted off their sewing machines to stitch fabric masks for healthcare workers during the pandemic, textiles connect us as humans and reveal our respective societies — if we take the time to study them. Unfortunately, such consideration of textiles has not been the case throughout the majority of history … until now.
Let’s talk all about textiles — what they are, why we study them, and what summer reads on textiles we’re recommending, as well as what we think are the best fabrics for summer.
What are textiles?
The word textile is thrown around often and used interchangeably with fabric, so you might be wondering, “What are textiles?” Textile refers to a range of flexible materials that are comprised of fibers, either natural or artificial, and used for a variety of purposes throughout society. In short, textiles are the materials all around us, from our clothing to our bedding to the curtains, ropes, and woven art we use or see every day.
What are considered textiles?
A textile is any material created from fibers and then transformed into fabrics or similar products. Textiles can include woven, knitted, or felted materials as well as such useful items as ropes or nets. In essence, any object made from fibers that serve purposes in clothing, home goods, or industrial applications is considered a textile.
What is the difference between fabric and textile?
“Textiles” is an all-encompassing umbrella term for products made from fibers, while “fabric” falls under the umbrella as a more specific type of product. Although there are many types of fabrics, textiles refers to a significantly more vast range of products. Textiles can refer to the raw materials used to create fabric projects, as well as the industry as a whole, while fabrics are a more specific finished product.
Summer Reading List
We’ve created the perfect summer reading list on the cultural importance of textiles. Each of the following books is a meticulously researched and beautifully written summer read. The following list is comprised of books authored by women with a decent digital footprint in terms of podcasts, reviews, and interviews with the authors. You can “pre-game” the books online or continue the pleasure of engaging with the online discourse after you have completed the summer reading list.
Textiles in Political Resistance
Threads of Life: A History of the World Through the Eye of a Needle by Clare Hunter
This book was a popular hit in Great Britain and was a BBC4 “Book of the Week,” where every day an excerpt was discussed. You can still listen to these excerpts online to supplement this summer read.
Author Clare Hunter is a textile artist and curator as well as a social justice issue banner-maker. She takes readers on a journey through history with examples of textiles from different parts of the world and different eras, all while speaking the truth of each maker.
Hunter details diverse examples of influential creations, including the famous medieval Bayeux tapestry, considered a hallmark of political propaganda, as well as the headscarves worn in 1970s Argentina by the mothers of “the disappeared.” Every Thursday, these mothers, who embroidered their scarves with the names of their lost children, would march in front of government buildings as a form of alternative protest.
Hunter’s book is a bit of a memoir too, making this enjoyable summer read even more relevant today as she discusses her experiences using textiles as a form of social justice.
Buy Threads of Life on Amazon (Not Affiliated)
A Historical Deep-Dive
The Fabric of Civilization: How Textiles Made the World by Virginia Postrel
This summer read is delicious. I really am at a loss how to do justice to the richness of this book. So, I’ll quote the backmatter written by the esteemed historian Elizabeth Wayland Warner: “Virginia Postrel has created a fascinating history of textiles from their Paleolithic beginnings to the present and future—from the earliest plant fibers plucked from weeds to synthetic fabrics with computer chips in their threads. And why, you say, should we examine mere cloth? Precisely because it fills more and more roles in our lives, yet we take it for granted.”
This book is a deep dive into the history of textiles and a powerful reminder of their importance in our past and our present. Read it!
Buy The Fabric of Civilization on Amazon (Not Affiliated)
Textile Innovation
The Golden Thread: How Fabric Changed History by Kassia St. Clair
You might recognize this author from her highly acclaimed book, The Secret Lives of Colour. Kassia St. Clair is a journalist who formidably overturns the centuries-old idea that clothing and cloth are frivolous subjects for study and “mere women’s work” and, instead, ties textiles to technology, innovation, and, ultimately, the advancement of civilization.
St. Clair focuses on 13 episodes from history in which textiles go hand in hand with human ingenuity. These episodes (or chapters) come from various regions in the world and points in history, but all are jaw-dropping tales.
One particular favorite is “Fibers in the Cave: The Origins of Weaving,” which gives us a glimpse into the manipulation of fibers by cave dwellers approximately 25,000 years ago. Scientists are able to study this prehistoric textile technology using cutting-edge scientific equipment and interdisciplinary teams of scholars. A fascinating episode to begin with!
“Under Pressure: Suits Suitable for Space” is another favorite chapter of mine, which details the development of the piece of clothing and engineering that astronaut Michael Collins wrote was all that stood “between the little soft pink body of the astronaut and the hard vacuum of space.” It involved the cooperation of NASA engineers and bra seamstresses to get it right!
Buy The Golden Thread on Amazon (Not Affiliated)
Best Fabric for Summer
While we learn about textiles, their history, and their cultural significance, we can’t help but think about the fabric of here and now. With the hot weather moving in, we’re offering up the best fabrics for summer this year.
Viscose Fabric
The Fabric Godmother is a European fabric maker who is putting out some gorgeous fabrics this year. This fuzzy-wuzzy Sherpa fleece is a beautiful viscose fabric with florals ready to be turned into fancy jammies for snuggling up on a rainy summer day. Their stretch denim is fantastic and begging to be made into the perfect summer overalls.
Unique Fabric
Cosplayers and garment sewists: we have hand-selected the best unique fabric for you, and it is just waiting to be sewn into one-of-a-kind Ren Faire outfits or envy-worthy costumes. These gorgeous Lyons Damask fabrics come in Burgundy and French Blue from Oriole Textile Co. This polyester and cotton fabric can be used for upholstery and curtains, but is also perfect for beautiful garments like view A of the Pauline Dress from Closet Core Patterns or The Heather Blazer from Friday Pattern Co. Damask fabric doesn't have a ton of stretch, so it works best with more structured garments.
The stunning French Blue Damask fabric from Oriole Textile Co.
We also love this Power Mesh Tulle from Oriole Textile. This unique fabric is best used for lining your knit garments and woven skirts, or any dresses and tops that are a bit see-through and need a lining. Power mesh tulle can also be used for sewing activewear and lingerie. For any dancers out there, power mesh tulle is great for making leggings and leotards.
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Now that you understand more about textiles and are well-equipped with a summer reading list on the subject, we encourage you to stay curious all summer long. Whether you are experimenting with unique projects or diving into our summer reads recommendations, you’ll be sure to discover and grow this summer. If you’re looking for more ways to learn, check out our class schedule for upcoming in-person lessons on new makes.
About the Authors
At Sew to Speak, we are all about collaboration, and this blog post was a group effort. Textile definitions, history, and summer reading list were written by Janette Knowles; summer fabric recommendations were provided by Eva Fried.
Janette Knowles, PhD, is chair of the Art and Design Program at Ohio Dominican University as well as the Director of ODU’s Wehrle Gallery and Co-Founder of Nursery Lane Studios. She cultivates dye plants for her own work in her urban garden in Merion Village in Columbus, Ohio, as well as on her fifth-generation family farm in Granger, Ohio.
Since 2023, Eva Fried has been the co-owner of Sew to Speak; however, she has been a customer of the shop since 2013. Eva is a loving mom/wife, health care provider, and a self-taught lifelong maker with an unquenchable thirst for learning and creating.