Hello, I am Cristy Stuhldreher of Love You Sew www.iloveyousew.com. Today, I'm bringing you the Tabor V-Neck top by indie designer, Sew House Seven. This is a great pattern for knit tops which can be made for any season depending on your fabric choice and view you choose. I have selected Views #2 and #4 to make and used two completely different types of knit fabric, one by Télio Fabrics and the other from StyleCrest. Both are available in the shop.
View #2 in Lightweight Black Knit
Pattern: All of the Views of the Tabor use a drop shoulder and have a nice bit of ease all around the body making it a very relaxed silhouette. With the temperatures slowly climbing up here in the Midwest, I wanted to make a classic everyday tee I could wear alone or as a nice layering piece under a jacket. Views #1-3 are all T-shirt versions and I selected #2 with the short banded sleeves, shirt-tail hem and mitered neckband.
Fabric: This lightweight knit was the perfect pairing for this pattern. With tissue weight knits, that are thinner, lighter, incredibly soft more breathable and thus have a considerable amount of drape...aka...the cling factor, these knits hang over every curve of your body. I like to pair this type of fabric with a pattern with lots of ease like this Tabor. These types of lightweight knits handle similarly to other light weight fabrics. Use extra pins to reduce shifting and also size down your ballpoint needle (I used a 70/10 on this project.)
Construction: I have never sewn a Sew House Seven pattern before and had no idea how my body would work with their block. Based on my measurements, I made a straight size 6 with no hip adjustment (which I normally grade out for.) Since there is so much ease already built into the garment, the finished size is larger than my hip measurement already. The instructions were nice and clear with how to make the V-neck and there are additional resources on Sew House Seven's Blog if you need them. I used my Juki MO-1000 serger for all of the seams and finished the hem with my Juki MCS-1700QVP cover stitch.
With the fabric being more delicate, I used lightweight knit hem tape by Heat and Bound (which you can find in the shop) to help stabilize the the hem through sewing -- It's a lifesaver, especially when working through a curved hem.
Final Thoughts: I would definitely make this top again, but would need to increase the sleeve opening and size up the sleeve band one or two sizes with this fabric. My arms are heavier compared to all of my other measurements and I have always had issues with the arms in woven tops. But I figured I wouldn't have issues with the arms based on the overall ease. While it's not a huge issue that the sleeve band is slightly snug (it's not cutting off circulation by any means,) it is dragging the shoulder though... This might not be an issue with a heavier fabric, but I would make the change anyways just in case ;)
View #4 in Télio Salmon Cotton Fleece
Pattern: I love how views #4-5 are drafted especially for heavier sweater knits. While the torsos are cut similarly, the neckband is a much wider lap style more suited to knits with more body. Sew House Seven has taken extra consideration into the knits available to all of us and has even included an extra note about selecting the right knit for her pattern. I appreciate the extra thoughts on the fabric selection - it can really make or break your experience! To balance out the short sleeve tee in view #2, I decided to make View #4 for the cooler days still around for the spring. I love the look of the longer body with the split hem perfect for leggings or french-tucked into high-waisted pants.
Fabric: The Salmon colored Cotton Fleece by Télio was a great selection for this view. It's a midweight knit with a slightly heathered smooth face and has a more saturated fleece back. You could use either side, but I really liked the color of the fleece and used that as my "right side." The fleece is also incredibly soft and hasn't pilled at all after a good first wash.
I think this fabric would be suited for the Toaster Sweater, Linden Sweatshirt and/or the Fjord Cardigan.
Construction: Based on the arm fit of View #2, I decided to go the next size up to a straight 8. Since the fit is oversized, I figured going up another size would make the sweater view much cozier. The split hem looks a bit intimidating, but the instructions were again, very straightforward and easy to follow. The amount of notches and markings were perfect to match up the pattern pieces. I used my serger to sew all the pieces together and then finished the hems all with the same coverstitch. I even used the chainstitch feature of my coverstitch to sew down the seam allowance around the neckband.
Final Thoughts: Next time, I will go back to my measured size and grade out for the arm. Although the fit is nice and cozy, there is a bit too much fabric under the arms and the neckband seems to shift up and back as I wear the sweater. Even though the neckband is different on View #2, it still fits well and I think a smaller one would help lay down more on my body. Also, if you are taller than 5'3", you may want to increase the length of your sleeves. I like longer sleeves that cover my wrists completely and there was barely 1/2" left for the hem to make my sleeves that length. Usually, I'm cutting 2" off other patterns since I'm so short.
Have you checked out the knits at the shop? Which one would you like to try with your Tabor V-neck ?